Adriana's Symi
 March 2004

The latest news & weather from Symi, reported by Adriana Shum from 'The Symi Visitor' office.

Adriana's Greek Recipe of the Week>>



Symi Report, Monday 29th March 2004

The clocks changed on Symi yesterday.  Combined with the continued warm dry weather we really do feel as though summer has arrived.  We had a sandstorm over the weekend and there was no shipping on Saturday due to gale force winds in most of the Aegean.  Symi was largely unaffected, apart from the lack of ferries.  We just had some spectacular skies, particularly around sunset.  There were black clouds and white squalls over Bozburun, mist banks rolling down the Vigla and the sun setting in a golden halo of dust behind Datca.   

 
The sky is clearing a bit today and visibility is improving as the wind changes to the north.  Apparently it is raining in Athens.  Whether any of this will reach us remains to be seen.  According to the Greek Met Office this is one of the warmest and driest Marches this corner of the Med has experienced in many years.
 
My first experiments in Brussels Sprouts did not yield much in the way of sprouts but the yellow flowers look pretty...  I think the chickens will have them for breakfast tomorrow.
 
There is a lot of dashing about going on in the harbour.  It seems as though everyone is running errands at top speed.  This is always a hectic time of year as there is so much to be done before the season starts and most of the locals have more than one iron in the fire at any one time.  Bags of whitewash, pots of paint, baulks of timber and everyone in overalls with paint spotted elbows and high on thinners.
 
Have a good week.


Regards,

Adriana

The Symi Visitor
www.SymiVisitor.com


Symi Report, Saturday 27th March 2004

The weather continues dry and unseasonably warm.  Right now the island is engulfed in a major dust storm licking up out of Africa on the back of a southerly gale.  The water boat is rafted up to a cargo ship in the harbour and there are no ferries today.  According to the forecast this will continue at least until tomorrow with temperatures touching 30 degrees and winds up to Force 9 in the Aegean.  Temperatures should drop slightly on Monday but there is no promise of rain beyond a mud shower if we are (un)lucky. 

 
Leafy vegetables are bolting rapidly in the warmth and my rocket is flowering nicely, grubby off-white flowers nodding in the wind like stocks gone wrong - not a desirable state of affairs.  The almond trees are shedding nuts as the water table drops and with every gust of wind we hear a volley of sharp 'pings' on the roof.  The apricot and peach trees have almost finished flowering but it is too soon to tell if any fruit has set.
 
Down in the harbour the Big Hole looks interesting.  It is about half full of murky water and odd rubber gloves in different colours are floating, suspended by air pockets trapped in the fingers.  Presumably the workmen are no longer attached...

Symi Report, Monday 22nd March 2004
 
Southerly breezes brought dew last night and low cloud this morning.  A few choppy squalls are jostling the boats in the harbour and plucking at flags on the bridge.  It is still exceptionally warm but the forecast is that this will break later in the week.

A big car ferry passed through this morning, off loading among other things a big truck filled with trees for sale.  Apart from the usual olives, almonds and lemons, he is also selling various shapes and sizes of conifers, some of them clipped into simple topiary shapes – an unusual sight on Symi where most trees are moulded by the prevailing wind rather than the hand of man.  At the back of the truck, just in case trade in fancy trees is slack, he also has some sacks of onions and potatoes.  Parked opposite the tree man there is another hawker selling crates of red and white cabbages and bags of oranges.

 

As far as the island’s cats are concerned, spring is definitely in the air.  Apart from nocturnal sing-songs, the toms are chasing the queens around the lanes and alleys at every opportunity, to the detriment of any freshly cemented surface. 

 

Thursday is not just the Annunciation but also the commemoration of the beginning of the Greek War of Independence so it is a fairly serious bank holiday.  Apparently the first tourist boats from Rhodes are also expected that day.  The first ice cream posters have appeared outside the supermarkets although I have yet to see any ice creams for sale and many of the soft drink fridges are still unplugged – room temperature is quite chilly enough.  


 


Symi Report, Friday 19th March 2004

 

The weather continues unseasonably warm and dry, forcing the wild flowers into premature bloom.  The hills are spangled with a multitude of small white daisies that echo the infinitely starry moonless nights.  Distant clouds pass over the Turkish mountains each afternoon but they do not linger, drifting on eastwards to some far part of Asia without a glance at Symi’s parched hills.

 

Pickup trucks bearing water tanks and jerry cans, bales of hay and sacks of grain, sheep dogs and squealing goats, grind up the hair pin bends to the upper farmsteads where only a few weeks ago ice still lingered in the shady places.

 

Yesterday, on my way back from one of the bakeries in Chorio, I saw the first obvious new arrival – a tanned blonde of Nordic appearance, wearing beach sandals, red sarong and woolly fleece.  Her eccentric attire more or less sums up the indecision that confronts all of us each morning as we dress like Russian nesting dolls and slough off layers like peeling onions.

 

Rumour whizzing round the harbour has it that the first excursion boats from Rhodes will start next week, accelerating the painting frenzy to a breathless pace.  On a slower note, a patient soul armed with a scraper was on his knees on the Kali Strata this morning, scratching the moss off the front of the all the steps prior to rewhitewashing them.  One hopes that his efforts will be appreciated as it certainly isn’t an enviable job!

 


Symi Report, Monday March 15th 2004

Northerly breezes have cleared the air, leaving sunshine sparkling on the water and crisp clouds scudding across a sapphire sky.  The continued dry weather is fading the cyclamens and irrigation is becoming necessary to keep the gardens and fields growing.  The early almond trees are already covered in tiny hairy green almonds and the apricots have burst into bloom.  Down on the Kali Strata the alexanders and angelica scent the air and feed the donkeys.

 

It is a busy time for the Symi shepherds.  Many ewes gave birth early during the cold weather and their premature off-spring have required extra attention and care to bring them up to size.  Easter is only a few weeks away and it is the annual sale of Easter lambs that provides the only real income for the local shepherds.  Old shepherds and their elderly dogs perch on sunny rocks and give instructions to the younger ones while the flocks mill about among the daisies.

 

In the harbour the big hole outside the Symi Visitor office is expanding and a large part of the Town Square has disappeared – intentionally it would seem, with the assistance of a pile driver.  Fortunately the current barometric high has lowered the water table in the harbour so it is no longer filling at the same rate as it drains.  We await developments with interest – and closed windows.


Symi Report, Friday March 12th 2004

The fresh green leaves of spring are erupting across the island and the Easter lambs are fattening nicely on oregano shoots and daisies.  Tuesday was very windy so the hydrofoil did not run but it did a double shift on Wednesday to make up for it.  We had 4 mm of mud rain mid-week - enough to send the housewives scurrying for their mops.  Most cars on the island are now a uniform buff colour and will probably remain that way until the mud-rain season is over.  From now until the end of the rainy season in a few weeks we are unlikely to have clean rain as it all comes up from the south, bringing the Sahara with it.  There is a possibility of mud showers today and the sky is overcast.  Hang the washing out at your own risk!

 
Now that the road is open the hawkers are back.  Gypsy trucks laden with carpets and tangerines trundle up and down between Yialos and Chorio, playing exotic music and calling their wares over loud hailers.  Down in the harbour the Great Symi Septic Tank project is still underway - the one in front of the Symi Visitor office vies with the Olympic facilities in terms of size, if not in quality of water!  We will all be relieved when this particular part of the spring spruce up is over and we can open the windows again. 
 
The new paving is proceeding well and the portions completed already have cafe chairs and tables on them, from which the usual assortment of 'helpers' can offer unsolicited advice and opinions while sipping Greek coffee.  More people are returning to the island to prepare their businesses for the season.  After all Easter is only a month away and, judging by some of the emails we are receiving, the walkers are already breaking in their boots and practising climbing stairs.
 
The Symi II is away for its annual inspection.  As soon as we have the whole fleet, nicely painted and lined up on the quay, we'll put pictures up, Mille!  We'll need to - so that no one misses the boat!

Symi Report, Monday March 8th 2004

The election is over.  New Democracy, the conservative party, won by a reasonable margin overall but within the prefecture of the Dodecanese Pasok won as usual so Symi is pretty subdued this morning.  A few New Democracy supporters tossing crackers around in smug celebration while everyone else is in huddles in the cafeneions, mulling over the implications of having a conservative government for the first time in half a generation. 

 
It is a cold clear day with the threat of rain this evening as the weather system that is currently pounding Italy tracks this way.  The full moon is giving us exceptional tides at the moment and the equinox is just around the corner.
 
The Symi II and the Aegli did numerous shuttles between Rhodes and Symi yesterday to ferry voters.  The Symi II has now finished her winter shift and is taking a break for inspection and maintenance so the Aegli is running for the rest of the month.  The fleet has changed its livery so both the Symi II and the Aegli have been painted ice cream colours to match the Panormitis.  It takes a little getting used to!


Symi Report, Friday March 5th 2004

Apart from some more mud showers we have had little rain this week.  The wind has brought more dust rather than cleared the air and visibility is still poor.  It has been warm enough for all the infant locusts to hatch in my garden and they are making great headway among the daisies and daffodils.  Meanwhile, in northern Greece, they are still in the depths of winter with snow, sleet, rain and cold northerly winds while we cough in the sands of the Sahara.

 
Election posters are up around Chorio and supporters of the two dominant parties, New Democracy and Pasok (the current ruling party) have been competing with each other when it comes to painting party emblems on the roads in dead of night.  The vestiges will still no doubt be visible when the first tourists arrive.  Generally, however, little store is set by propaganda leaflets and party printed bumph - the spoken word counts for more so television and organised rallies are the main vehicles for getting the message across.  These are then reported in the newspapers of which Greece has an amazing number.  Even in the blizzards and storms experienced in much of Greece in recent weeks turn outs have been good at rallies and meetings judging by the television footage.  As the two main contenders are extremely close in the polls the voting public is evaluating their relative merits very carefully, particularly on issues such as immigration, social security and agricultural policies.  There are several smaller parties as well, the largest of which is KKE, the Greek Communist Party, which has a surprisingly large following considering that Communism has gone out of fashion in other European countries.  One thing is certain, there are no 'lunatic fringe' parties such as Screaming Lord Sutch and Greeks take politics very seriously.  
 
Meanwhile, on the playing fields of Chorio, the whistles of school teachers grow ever more demented as they try to instil rudiments of drill into children who lack the brain washed fervour of the North Koreans when it comes to parades.  March 7 is, of course, Dodecanese Day, a holiday celebrated with joyous enthusiasm on the Dodecanese islands as it commemorates the day when this group of islands finally became part of Greece proper. 
 
On Monday we should know who won.  Meanwhile, have a good weekend!

Symi Report, Monday March 1st 2004

The dust has settled - literally.  Every window and shutter on the island, every car and blade of vegetation is covered in fine sand.  Every housewife in Chorio was out with mop and bucket this morning.  The storm finally blew itself out at midday yesterday, enabling the Symi II to make a quick unscheduled there-and-back trip to Rhodes as it had not been able to go on Saturday.

 
There is the possibility of some rain over the next few days and strong winds are once again forecast for Friday and the weekend.  This is a pain as the Greek parliamentary election is on Sunday 7 March and everyone has to get back to wherever they are registered to vote.  This means that a large proportion of the population will be on the move over the weekend and ferry disruptions will be most unwelcome.
 
The temperature is several degrees warmer than is normal for this time of the year and the poppies are starting to open.  Other aspects of nature are also active at the moment, most annoyingly the local field rats who have been working their way up and down my chickpea field, digging up and eating the seeds as they sprout.  Instead of cheery staggered rows of bright green shoots we have depressing staggered rows of little holes with small fat footprints leading from one to the next in the damp earth.  So much for the theory that just the merest whiff of a cat is enough to send them elsewhere. 
 
A big boat has just docked and a convoy of vegetable hawkers and lorries loaded with polystyrene fish boxes, new filing cabinets (?!) and gaudy duvets is lumbering past, carefully negotiating the obstacle course created by the Pachos paving project. 
 
We hope to provide a shot or two of the new bus stops shortly.  They are lying at various stations, awaiting concreting.  No comment.

    
© Adriana Shum 2004
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