Adriana's Symi
 November 2004

The latest news & weather from Symi, reported by Adriana Shum from 'The Symi Visitor' office.

Adriana's Greek Recipe of the Week>>



Symi report; Tuesday 30th November
 
A fat cloud drifted over Symi early yesterday morning and started to drizzle over Yialos and Chorio at about half past eight.  At half past six in the evening it finally mooched off.  The streetlights stayed on all day and the rain water gauge record 20 mm of rain over the 10 hour period.   A similar cloud floated in this morning but seems to be dumping most of its load somewhere between Nimos and Turkey so we are only on the fringe of the rain and distant patches of sunshine are already lighting up the hills towards Orhaniye.
 
The rain is from the south west and temperatures have risen back into double figures.  Partly cloudy weather with occasional showers and higher than usual temperatures are forecast for the rest of the week so we can look forward to a day or two in the twenties.
 
The snails are out with a vengeance, gorging themselves on the new greenery.  Wild angelica is coming up between the flagstones below the Symi Visitor office and every particle of earth seems to have something sprouting from it.  Moss, cyclamens, dandelions and mixed grasses are rapidly filling in the blanks and wild lupins are pushing furry fists through the all-smothering Cape sorrel.
 
Have a good week. 

Regards,
Adriana

www.symivisitor.com


Symi report; Friday 26th November

Thank you for your emails.  We are alive and hypothermic out here in the gale-lashed extremities of the last outpost of the Greek islands.  Actually, it's not as bad as all that.  It was 4 degrees inside my house at 7 am, when I won the short straw to emerge from under the mound of duvets and light the gas under the kettle.  One thing is for sure - it is a lot colder than usual for November.  Our 'outdoor' cat has moved quite emphatically indoors - nesting in the baskets of unshelled almonds I am in the process of drying out for storage.  Well, it is one way of keeping the mice out of the nut harvest.  Usually I have a shortage of volunteers for rodent repellent duties but I suppose the prospect of being allowed to sleep on the job made it more attractive this year.
 
It should turn a bit warmer tomorrow when the wind drops.  On Sunday we are expecting westerly winds which may bring some rain and temperatures will then be within more normal parameters for the time of year - mid to high teens in the day time and about 8-9 at night.
 
Speaking of rain, we had quite a heavy downpour on Wednesday night and the Agia Marina river along our boundary flowed for the first time.  Not through our bedroom this time, hoorah, and even our road remained more or less passable. 
 

Symi report; Monday 22nd November

Brrr.  A brisk northerly wind is whipping across the harbour and the Symi II is firmly tied to the quay.  There is a forlorn huddle of trucks at the clock tower, waiting for a big boat which, even if it appears, is unlikely to dock.  The thermometer is struggling to get into double figures and there is little movement out of doors.  We have dug out the heaters in the Symi Visitor office and are well wrapped up.  The forecast for the rest of the week is for windy days, low temperatures and a possible rainy spell around Wednesday.  The barometer is very high at the moment so the water level in the harbour is low and a green fringe of seaweed is visible all the way round.  When the ducks aren't 'riding the wave' on the customs slipway, they are sitting under the boats around the town square, gossiping about the dustbin cats.  The geese prefer the little patch of grass outside the police station.
 
There is a small boat making a very wet and bouncy trip up wind to Nimborio.  The boat itself is virtually invisible without binoculars but the spray it is kicking up as it struggles to make headway is the only consistent patch in a confused sea.  The clouds are moving at great speed, casting quick black shadows on inky water and the sky is blindingly bright.
 

Symi report; Friday 19th November

Temperatures have dropped throughout Greece and it is expected to become seriously cold even this far south over the next few days.  It is deceptively calm over Symi today, despite gale warnings in force for much of the Aegean and more rain is expected.  The forecast for the next few days covers every conceivable wind direction and velocity and the ferry schedule is likely to be erratic.  Anyone leaving the island is advised to take a toothbrush and be prepared to stay over.

 
The recent rain has had a dramatic effect on the landscape.  Olives that were shrivelled on the trees have plumped out and look quite promising.  A verdant bloom has appeared over the terraces, the sage bushes have uncrinkled and there are seeds of all kinds germinating everywhere one looks.  The dry stone walls of summer have turned into gardens of ferns and the quaintly named 'Venus' navel'.  Digging over some beds in the garden yesterday I was turning up earthworms that summer visitors would not believe could live in these conditions.  The last of the peppers blaze red and yellow on the bushes, the leaves long gone to the cold.  They will shortly be replaced with rows of spinach, chicory and lettuce.  As soon as the basil seed is ready to harvest it will be replaced by a bed of parsley and dill.  A few chilli bushes have taken up winter quarters in the greenhouse, along with some jasmine cuttings I am trying to root.
 
Have a good weekend and I will be back on Tuesday.  It is olive harvesting time!
 

Symi report; Tuesday 16th November

The stormy season got off to a good start.  It is not often that we see both Yialos and Pedi full of large commercial vessels rafted up with warps and anchors in all directions.  In comparison with other parts of Greece Symi did pretty well - apart from ferry disruptions and a few cracked tiles nothing much happened here whereas other areas experienced flooding and walls, trees and electricity pylons were blown over.   On Sunday morning the ducks were having a great time, riding the surf up the slip way by the customs house.  The geese preferred the high ground and set up an aloof camp in the centre of the square.  The crews of the water boats and the Dodecanese Express were fishing off the quay on Monday morning, waiting for the shipping ban to be lifted and the crew of one big building ship took the opportunity to touch up the paintwork with rollers on very very long handles. It was also exceptionally foggy on Monday morning, turning hot when the sun broke through.

 
It is still quite unsettled today with a succession of showers, squalls, rainbows and scraps of blue sky.  The hydrofoil ran this morning and everyone who needs to do anything in Rhodes is taking advantage of the gap in the weather before it closes in again at the end of the week.  It is expected to become considerably colder as the week progresses with strong northerly winds.
 
Tomorrow is 17 November.  Those of you with long memories or an interest in modern Greek history may remember that this was the day in 1973 when the students of Athens rose up in protest against oppression and took control of the Polytechnic.  Although several students lost their lives when the military regime of the time sent in the tanks to break up the protest, their brave actions led to the eventual collapse of the Junta governing Greece and the reinstatement of democracy.  Not surprisingly this is commemorated with some seriousness in modern Greece and the schools will be closed tomorrow.
 

Symi report; Friday 12th November

Partly cloudy and decidedly damp on Symi today. Paddling around Rhodes yesterday I discovered why they have all those umbrella shops. When the heavens open it is not only the rain one has to avoid - the gutters on most roofs just consist of a couple of spouts sticking out horizontally from the rims of the flat roofs, propelling great jets of water out into the street at some velocity. Occasionally an awning may deflect the blast but the general effect is similar to gargoyles on a gothic cathedral. Downpipes seem in short supply, possibly because there are few drains to lead them too and many buildings are below street level. Very interesting. We might not have much by way of drains on Symi either but the rain off our roofs goes into cisterns and the island is sufficiently steep for water to flow away quickly.

There is very little shipping activity now and the post office is a mountain of uncollected mail bags as the big boat which has the mail contract for the winter failed to appear this week.

It is still fairly warm today if one is in the sun with temperatures in the low twenties, but temperatures will continue to drop and we may be seeing highs around 10-11 and lows around 5 degrees later next week with more rain and strong northerly winds.


Symi report; Tuesday 9th November

It started to rain at 2.30 pm on Friday afternoon and was wet and stormy all weekend. By 7 am this morning (Tuesday) we had had a total of 80 mm of rain and there are still squalls dancing around the horizon. Symi fared better than many other places in Greece. There were some interesting shots on television last night of cars piled up on top of each other and stuck in trees in Crete and along the Corinth/Athens highway. When the first downpour hit us on Friday afternoon it took a lot of people by surprise. We were amused to see a party of Greek tourists who had been lunching at a waterfront taverna dashing for the Panormitis bus wrapped in plastic tablecloths!

There are still a few yachts about, including the big catamaran tied up below our window (see webcam shot). They are Belgians and have two large dogs on board. The fishermen are all in wet weather gear today - bright orange and yellow waterproof dungarees and rubber boots.

The Panormitis festival went better than expected considering the weather and pictures will be available soon.

The island is greening over rapidly, in part because the dust and cement of summer and roadworks has been washed off the leaves. The hillsides are alive with the flicker of torches at night as the snail gatherers set to work despite the rain.

The weather is expected to remain unsettled for the rest of the week with more rain, storms and some strong winds. I am off to Rhodes tomorrow so if you don't hear from me on Friday you'll know I'm still stuck there!


Symi report; Friday 5th November

The weather is starting to change.  There have been gale force winds in the central and northern Aegean and the low is moving slowly this way.  We can only hope that it blows itself out before the festival on Monday.  There are ripples on the water and there is the smell of rain on the air.  Light grey clouds are casting shadows on Nimos.

 
Yesterday I went to Rhodes.  Coming back on the Symi II there was the most bizarre vehicle I have ever seen.  It must have started life as a short wheel-base white panel van but all identifying marks had been battered out of it.  The front had been crumpled and then beaten back into some sort of shape.  Amazingly the windscreen and radiator (completely exposed) were intact.  Of bumpers and headlights there were none and a bit of cardboard in the window had the registration number scrawled on it in marker pen.  The passenger seat was piled high with, of all things, hundreds of hot dog buns in plastic bags.  The sliding doors at the side were missing and the interior revealed more bags of buns.  The driver, a weather beaten and wiry looking chap of indeterminate age coaxed it down the ramp and around the harbour.  We were driving behind it and did notice that one reverse light was actually working.  Our speculations as to how it would make it over the mountain to Panormitis were curtailed when it crawled off to the fuel station, probably to camp for the night, in company with an elderly sage green/primer grey hatchback of similarly perilous condition.  It's worth taking a trip over the mountain just to see if they make it...
 
My next report from Symi will be on Tuesday as Monday is, of course, the Panormitis Festival.
 

Symi report; Monday 1st November

As winter tightens its grip in the north
, more and more birds are arriving in our corner of the Mediterranean.  Robins party among my paprika plants and it is a competition between us and our feathered friends for the last of the cherry tomatoes.  Any seedlings not covered with netting are quickly pulled up.  Even the chickens are under siege and the cockerel chases cheeky trespassers out of the hen run.  With the clear moonlit nights the owls are active too, keeping the mice on the move. 

 
It is still abnormally warm and windless.  If this weather holds it will be the fairest Panormitis festival in a long time.  The pilgrims are already arriving to be sure of finding a place to sleep at the monastery.
 
Meanwhile the roadworks seem to be finally drawing to some sort of conclusion.  Although there is a still a big open trench at Kampos corner there is a lot of tidying up going on elsewhere.  A large lorry with a 10 ton steel water tank on the back proceeds slowly down the road, hosing it down in sections while labourers shovel and scrape away the sand.  A squad of street sweepers brings up the rear, picking up the water bottles, frappe cups and cigarette butts left by the labourers.  A bizarre cavalcade, usually with the bus or similar stuck behind it all.
 
The geese have certainly made themselves at home.  This morning when I went round to the post office before work they were all camped on that little patch of garden in front of the police station, to the dismay of the resident cats skulking beneath the police car.  The ducks, on the other hand, still had their heads firmly under their wings on the pavement outside Pachos.
 

©Adriana Shum 2004
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